March 2009

I can’t believe it’s March already and turkey hunting is right around the corner. When I was a kid summer was for fishing and fall was for hunting and trapping and that’s all there was. I think a person could now find a place to hunt or fish 365 days a year if they wanted to. There have been many changes to hunting seasons, clothes, bows and other gear over the years. Taxidermy has also changed from the stuffed animal look, to mounts that are considered by many to be wildlife art. Over the last two decades I’ve seen vast improvements in taxidermy supplies and tanning techniques. With new innovations in the industry, taxidermy competitions, and taxidermists networking more than ever, poor work and boring poses should be a thing of the past. In the next few months I will be doing a series of articles called 'The Trophy Room' that will hopefully enlighten you as to what’s available in poses for the different species that we love to hunt and also, because great taxidermy starts with great field care, how to handle your trophy before you deliver it to your taxidermist.

Good hunting
Deb ‘Huntress’ Ackeret

Turkey Mounts

Many of us are now gearing up for turkey hunting. For some it may be the first time out and for others it’s a chance to add another beard on the board. Tail fan mounts, along with saving the beard and spurs, have been the taxidermy standard for many years but it’s not the only option. Every spring I get calls from hunters saying ‘I just shot a big tom….what can I do with it?’ There are a lot of different answers to that question based on personal preference, room in your home for the display and cost. The best time to make the decision on what type mount you want is ‘right now’. Just like planning ahead for your hunt, plan ahead for your mount and you will be prepared when that big double bearded tom hits the ground. If you want something more than a tail fan mount and have the wall space then maybe a ‘wing mount’ is for you. Different taxidermists have different ways of displaying the wings and costs may vary….$175-$200.

Another mount that takes up the same amount of wall space is a ‘half mount’. Similar to the wing mount but the head and breast are mounted on a form to stand away from the wall and the legs are added….$275-$375 Some taxidermists do this mount as head/breast and tail only…no wings….so it will take up less wall space.

Life sized mounts are only limited by your imagination. They can be wall mounted or done on a floor base. Stock poses are usually standing-alert, gobbling or strutting (full or half strut). Prices range from $450-$1000 Most taxidermists will also do custom mounts in any pose you wish …expect to pay $600-$1200. Some of these mounts might have exotic wood bases, or have the turkey interacting with another animal like a snake or coyote. If you can find a picture of a turkey in the pose you want, take it with you to show the taxidermist…it will help him/her to envision the finished mount the same way you do.

Field Care for Turkeys
After a long morning of calling that big tom turkey finally came in to your decoys and your shot was true. You’ve already decided that you want to have a turkey mount so you might be thinking ‘Now what do I do with him?’.

Proper field care is the first step to a great looking mount and sadly many trophies are ruined each year by hunters who didn’t know how to care for them. These tips should keep this from happening to you but I urge all hunters to contact their taxidermist before they go on a hunt in order to get his/her instructions on care.

• Finish dispatching birds quickly by breaking the neck. Small feathers that are lost from the bird flopping cannot be replaced and may show up as uneven feather tracts on the finished mount.

• Pick up any large feathers that may have been lost. Wing and tail feathers can be replaced if you bring them in with the bird.

• For a tail fan mount remove the tail by cutting off the the fatty ‘bulb’ at the base of the spine. Remove the beard by cutting the skin around it, insert the knife underneath and pop it out. Keep both cold (refrigerated) for up to 2 days or place in a plastic bag and freeze for longer storage.

• For wing mounts remove the tail first. Then remove wings by separating the last joint closest to the body. Remove the entire breast skin with the beard attached …you should have the whole underside of the bird skinned from the vent near the tail all the way up to the neck. Keep refrigerated for up to 2 days or freeze.

• Half mounts and life size mounts should be skinned by your taxidermist. Do not field dress or breast out the bird unless your taxidermist already gave you permission to do so. Some taxidermists will charge extra for repairing any damage you have caused. Taking the bird in immediately is best. If you need to store it keep refrigerated or in a cooler on top of the ice…do not let the bird get wet. If you must store long term cool the bird for a few hours first then wrap the head in damp, white paper towel and slip a small plastic bag over it. Tuck the head under a wing, smooth down all the feathers, place the whole bird in a large plastic bag and freeze.

Next month...Choosing a Taxidermist